Below are notes written by Muswellbrook resident George W. Phillips in 1930 recalling the layout of Muswellbrook as it was in the 1850s when he was a child. George W. Phillips was born in Muswellbrook in March 1846 and included many anecdotal notes about early Muswellbrook people. Click on map below to go to original article and enlarged map
The Map corresponds to numbers in the list below. No 1 begins in the right upper section in Bridge Street:
1. A small wooden hotel on the bank of Sandy Creek, 'The Bull's Head,' kept by Martin Donohue and family . A favorite camping place for carriers and drovers.
2. About mid-way between Donohue's and the 'Brook, a comfortable wooden residence. Doctor West and his son John lived here. His first residence at Hill-street was burnt down. He was an old English sport, and kept a pack of hounds and frequently went through the town in scarlet coat with his hounds. He was superseded in residence by, the Rev. Duncan Ross, Presbyterian minister at the 'Brook for years.
3. A wooden cottage, with small farm attached occupied by T. McMahon. Farmer and carrier. Afterwards he took a farm at Scone and later joined in the '61 rush for land in the district.
4 and 5. Two small wooden cottages just above where the bridge crosses the Hunter for the west, tenanted by widow Ward and family.
6. The first house in Bridge-street (wooden), joining the 'Dog Trap Lane,' so called after the 'Dog Trap Crossing,'' which it leads to. The lane has since been known as Wilkins' lane. This store was owned by Mr. Lipman, managed by Isaac Moses. The Wilkins family succeeded the above.
8. A small cottage occupied by William Hodges, bushman and shearer, and large family. Fencing by contract was his forte.
9. A small hut used by deadbeats and tramps. It was also used as a morgue for the homeless.
10. Hotel, kept by Richard ('Dicky') Ward, the 'White Hart Hotel,' a very low wooden building, but in the late forties had a two-storey brick addition, with sundry brick additions, to the back premises. This hotel was acknowledged to have been one of the first erected in the town, as was also the 'Blue Bell,' at the lower end of Bridge-street. They were the first houses that required repairing (roofing). The White Hart was the first house in the north to be repaired with galvanised iron, not the corrugated iron of the present, but small flat sheets, about 2ft. by 3ft., with a rib each side. (I understand that a few of the sheets are still in evidence among the curios). The first circus, about '55 (Ashton's) to come north performed at the back of this hotel. The house was very much used by the sports, races being held very often and the stock yards being immediately opposite on the hill. The eldest daughter was later married to John West, only son of
Dr. West. W. Eaton succeeded Richard Ward about 1856, and it became Eaton's Hotel, and later H. R. Flanders acquired it. The hotel became one of the best houses in the north. The license has been continued since this hotel was built.
Ashtons circus at Hanging Rock Diggings
11. A brick store, carried on by Cockraim Bros, (two) and managed by Stephen Bowl, who later married Sarah, eldest daughter of Fred Hooper, and at her decease married into the Spencer family from the Rouchel, and kept a store opposite the court house.
12. A two-storey residence of stone and brick, and butcher's shop of wood, kept by John Maddy, dealer and butcher. He married a daughter of the numerous Budden family. He was killed by a fall from his horse at Singleton.
13. A small three-roomed cottage (wood), kept by John Holland, baker and lolly-pop shop.
14. The 'White Horse Hotel,' of wood, with an addition of one room (stone) at the back, at the cornor of Bridge and Hill-streets, kept by David Graham. He was in the first rush to acquire land under the Robertson Land Act and took up land at Muscle Creek. Elijah Budden, saddler, succeeded him at the hotel. One feature of this hotel was the spacious verandah, floored with cobble stones, i.e., the water-worn stones from the bed of the Hunter. It was customary in the early period, until the advent of the railway, for the signboard, with the name of the licensee and the name of the hotel, to be hung on hinges between two posts, which, in windy weather, swung backwards and forwards, giving an ominous sound. The posts were a favorite lolling place for the visitors. These ornamental posts were in front of all hotels.
15. This was in '56 the largest brick building in town, of three storeys at the rear, with brick walls round the yard. A general store, kept by R. Beams. A large balance scale was hung on a tripod in front of the store, with weights, totalling 8 cwt. At night time these weights of 56 lb. each would have a chain passed through the hand bolts and locked. A number of smaller weights were kept inside. These scales were very much used by the towns people in the course of dealing. On the entrance door was painted 'Open, from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m.'' This was still in evidence in 1863. There was a stair way on the south end, which led up to the top storey where the goods were hoisted with block and tackle. George Munday was an employee. The Beams' family later acquired grazing property down the Talbragar. Lockton followed Beams in the store.
16 and 17. Stone store, two-storey, and residence, kept by Wingrave and McAlpin. One son and daughter. The daughter married Elijah Budden, a saddler, who superseded McAlpin in a saddler's shop, and who some years after built a stone shop almost opposite, and later superseded David Graham in 'The White Horse Hotel.'
18. A two storey brick house, occupied by Charles Fox, chief constable, who had charge of the town, having three or four foot-constables under him. He was accidentally shot while handling firearms His wife at the time was school mistress at St. Alban's School.
19 and 20. Residence, blacksmith and wheelwright shop, kept by W. Austin, and W. Morrison and Jabex Skelton.
21. A small cottage back from Bridge-street. Mrs. Hegarty and sons (Pierce and Edward). Relatives of H. Nowland lived here. She was superseded by P. S. Luscombe (chemist), the first chemist shop opened in the 'Brook. He later built a shop and residence at the corner of Brook and Bridge-streets. The stocks used in the 'early days as a, punishment for minor offences wore almost opposite.
22. The Royal Hotel, of wood, with an attic of one room at the top, and a number of buildings (brick) behind, kept by Henry Nowland. Among the numerous buildings of the sons of Henry Nowland were a weatherboard cottage on wheels which had evidently been brought some distance. In the early days, Nowlands were Muswellbrook on the northern end, having so many vested interests. They, were continually breaking in horses for mail purposes, H.N. being a noted brand.
23. A dwelling house of wood, used in connection with the hotel.
24. Butcher's shop, with latticed windows, kept by Nowland.
25. A cottage, wood, tenanted by Stringall, a carpenter.
26. A store room, wood, used for sales and later on a cordial making shop.
27. A low building, wood, 'The Blue Bell Inn' kept by Mrs. M. A. Bellow. It was reported to be one of the first buildings, and was a facsimile of the 'White Hart' Hotel (probably built by the same builder). Mrs. Bellew also had a vineyard at the time at 'Piercefield.' This was a favorite camping place of the carriers, the traffic of the north turning of here and going across by Market street, and the top end of the show ground, except in flood time. Mrs Bellow had two sons, Fred and Harry Watt, by her first husband. The hotel was later called 'The Shamrock Hotel' and kept by Mr. Gleeson, who later built an hotel up William-street, and transferred the license to it. Mrs. Bellew was the first to make wine. A feature of this vineyard was the number of alloes that were around it.
28-29. Hut, two rooms and yard, used in connection with the hotel.
30. Two roomed cottage, used by employees and farm hands.
31. Two roomed cottage, tenanted by James Phillips (carpenter) and family, Jane and George. It was here that George, the writer of these memoirs, was born in March 18th., 1846. Jane later married W. Davidson, a late Mayor of Muswellbrook. She was born on a small farm close to Black Hill, about 1 1/2 miles from Muswellbrook, on January 20, 1844. Their parents entered into the services of Rev. R. G. Boodle, in 1848, at the St Alban 's Parsonage, where James Phillips died in 1851. His last work was in assisting in the shingling of the newly erected chancel in the old St. Alban's Church. The mother remained as housekeeper for some time.
32. A small cottage, tenanted by McAuley, a tailor, and family.
33. The public pound on the bank of Muscle Creek, between Demnan and the north railroads. A very large signboard was there, stating the cost of each animal, and giving all particulars, showing how methodically they did things in the early days. These were signed, L. A. Sibthorp, Clerk of Petty Sessions.
34. A small barn, roofed by shade rick.
35. A small cottage, W. Fuz, farm hand, and family
36. A small cottage, tenanted by W. Morrison and family (blacksmith). He worked in company with W. Austin, and Jack Mason lived with him.