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By the late1820’s settlers were occupying land in the Lake Macquarie and Central Coast area of NSW. The first land grants were to William Cape at Wyong and Percy Simpson at Cooranbong in 1825.
In 1826 Principal Superintendent of Convicts Frederick Augustus Hely received a land grant in the district as did Jeremiah Warlters. John Slade purchased land at Tuggerah Lakes in 1828 and Robert Henderson owned land at Bungaree Norah (Norah Head). The Central Coast land remained un-surveyed until this time due to the lack of surveyors in the colony however with so much land being granted it was necessary to take accurate measurements so the government would have a clear idea of the portions of land available for future applicants.
James Ralfe who arrived as a free passengers on the Hercules in 1825, was the first sent to effect these surveys and began with the areas around Lake Macquarie in 1829. He set out on a second survey in January 1830 to complete the Lake Macquarie survey and to commence on the Tuggerah Lakes area. On this trip he first landed at Terrigal on the 12th January. On the following day he set sail and landed 20 miles north at ‘Bundary Norah’ (Norah Head) where some in the group visited the nearby dairy managed by Mr. Henderson to obtain flour and beef for the crew. They left ‘Bundary Norah’ at daybreak the next day.
James Ralfe had conducted his surveys via the waterways however the next survey by Felton Matthew was done overland. On 21st October 1830 Felton Matthew left his survey site at Broken Bay and ‘removed up the water’ to commence surveying the creeks of the area. On 25th October he left the Brisbane Water and walked to Norah Harbour where he sailed to Sydney. He commenced surveying again in December where he once again sailed to Norah Harbour before proceeding overland to Henderson’s dairy where he checked rations and procured harnesses before setting out to survey the Tuggerah Creek.
In the early days of the century the prized red cedar trees were felled in the Hunter River region however by the 1830’s these stands were dwindling. The government, possibly concerned about reckless logging by all and sundry prohibited the unlawful acquisition of the cedar. A limited number of settlers were issued with licenses and were able to cut specified amounts.
In the 1830’s when vast quantities of cedar were discovered in the mountain ranges to the west of Tuggerah and Lake Macquarie, settlers were quick to exploit the forests once again. Although a number of licenses were granted in the area, it was found to be an easy task to ship the timber to Sydney because of the number of traversable waterways. Unauthorized ‘cedar gangs’ in the Tuggerah area, after bringing the logs downstream from the ranges, would float the logs across the Tuggerah Lakes to the area later known as Canton Beach from where they would be taken the short distance overland to Cabbage Tree Harbour (Norah Head). There was also a dray track from Wyong that passed through the scrub around Tuggerah Lakes to farms near Budgewoi and Norah Head.
This track to Cabbage Tree Harbour may have been used by the cedar gangs to haul the logs using bullocks. From here it was an easy task to ship the logs to Sydney. In 1833 several thousand feet of timber was seized at 'Bungaree Norah' for being illegally cut.
Some of these men in the ‘cedar gangs’ were untrustworthy characters and settlers blamed them for theft and disruption in their areas. A convict constable, Robert Chitty was posted at Cabbage Tree Harbour to keep an eye on the activities of unauthorized timber getters however by 1834 he had been summoned to Brisbane Waters. Chitty later became a member of the notorious Jewboy Gang and in December 1840 the gang returned to Chitty's old district. Magistrate Henry Donnison wrote to the authorities of the activities of the gang -
The people of that place told Mr Moore that they had been attacked by a party who cut them off from three of their horses, but the men escaped. Yesterday morning early the Bushrangers left Cabbage Tree and proceeded to Wyong where I understand they got horses and robbed the place and some drays that were stopping there, after which they went in the direction of Newport which some other drays had gone - My principal object in writing is to acquaint you that the fellows stated that when they got horses they would proceed to Liverpool plains, which is very likely and with a good lookout on the Hunter they may perhaps be intercepted. They are wary; when at Cabbage Tree they made 2 candles which were burnt in the hut during the night, each man had his station at a tree outside, with a double barrelled gun, so that had an attacking party gone directly to the hut they would have been picked off. Of the horses taken at Wyong I feel sure, from knowing the stock, that 2 are grey. Robert Chitty, formerly scourger in this District, is one of the party, and knows this part of the country well. (4)
THE FIRST JETTY
Settlers of the area were also tempted to exploit the valuable timber. In the 1830’s George Bloodsworth a cattle farmer of Dooralong built a jetty and wharf at Cabbage Tree Harbour to transport cedar obtained without a license, to Sydney in his boat the “Alice”. Other settlers also used this wharf.
Edward Hammond Hargraves acquired land that had been granted to Robert Henderson in the 1850’s. Here he built a house in 1853, taking more than three years to complete it. The ceiling was of hand carved solid cedar from the Yarramalong Valley. The roof was of shingles. Edward Hargraves often entertained distinguished guests at his home, transporting them by boat to Cabbage tree Harbour. He employed maids, governesses and tutors as well as gardeners groom and stockmen. The property provided much of the supplies needed such as beef, chickens, dairy, fruit and vegetables as well as fish from the nearby ocean. Goods such as flour, sugar and salt were usually brought from Sydney to Cabbage Tree Harbour.
With the increase in trade of cedar as well as the coal from Newcastle and supplies to local settlers, many ships were sailing up and down the coast between Sydney and Newcastle. It was inevitable that some would fall foul of the sometimes treacherous conditions. Dangerous reefs dotted the areas and squalls and storms were not infrequent. In 1849 Lieutenant Yule of the schooner Bramble made the following report to Captain Owen Stanley of a shoal he had found that was not recorded on the coastal charts:
'The outer extremity of the shoal is on a line with Bird Island and Bungarynora Point. At intervals between the breaking of the rollers I succeeded in getting soundings 3 fathoms, rocky bottom. I observed continuous breakers from the outer extremity of the shoal to Point Tuggerah, in a north west direction sufficient to upset or swamp a small coaster. The shoal may be avoided by keeping outside the line I have mentioned, namely, Bird Island on with Bungarynora Point. I beg to add that I observed heavy breakers extending a considerable distance from Point Bungarynora, which should warn the smaller vessels to keep well outside that point.
Early shipwrecks in the area include the Ceres, a paddle steamer built in Clarencetown in 1836 that sank after hitting a rock (Bulls Head) near Norah Head on 29 August 1836; The Anne Maria a schooner carrying cedar sank off 'Bungarees Noragh' on 21st July 1857 with loss of one life; The Suffolk, a brig wrecked when chains parted during a gale on 4th September 1859 four miles south of Norah Head; The Tim Wiffler capsized in 1871 during a squall off Birdie Island with loss of three lives; the Esperanza in 1868 sank after being caught in a gale with a loss of 10 lives; and the Janet Dixon a schooner carrying coal sank near Cabbage Tree Harbour in 1871 in the area later known as Jenny Dixon beach.
Wreck of the collier Paterson at Norah Head in 1951
Added to the frequent trading ships up and down the coast were the Italian fishermen and their families who settled at Norah Head towards the end of the century. The Rossetti and Russo families were among them and they sent their catches of fish and lobster to the Sydney market.
The hazardous waters continued to take ships and lives and in the early 1900’s it was decided to build a lighthouse at Norah Head. It was completed in 1903 and is in the Barnet style complete with a bluestone balcony and large black and white floor tiles. The bases are concrete and the towers are of preformed blocks cemented in place before concrete rendering. The concrete blocks are made from local sand. As Bloodworth's jetty at Cabbage Tree Harbour had long ago disintegrated, a new jetty was built to transport building material for the lighthouse. The construction was not without problems however and at one stage the day labour was sacked due to lack of progress.
The first lighthousekeeper, N. H. Williams enjoyed the benefits of the brand new living quarters constructed adjacent to the lighthouse and was required, along with his assistants, to keep the light operating and the maintenance and cleaning and polishing of the light up-to-date.
Mrs. Williams - Lady of the Lighthouse
For the first sixty years the light source was kerosene. In 1961 electricity was connected and later a 1000w tungsten-halogen lamp was installed. There have been many lighthouse keepers over the years however in 1983 plans were made to automate the lighthouse and a lighthouse keeper as such was no longer required, however a caretaker remained on the premises.
Norah Head before the Rockpool c. 1934.
REMINISCENCES OF NORAH
My father John Savage first visited Norah Head as a young boy in the 1930's.
A neighbour (Fred Pellow), owned a piggery at Highfields near Newcastle and he kindly offered to show my father's family his favourite fishing spot. The entire family of six bundled into Mr. Pellow's pig truck - it took hours to make the journey from Highfields to Norah Head that day but it must have been worth it because the family returned - again and again.
After that first trip, my grandfather took his own Model T Ford and the journey from Newcastle was always an adventure. As they came close to the coast near Budgewoi, the roads were just sandy tracks. Along the flat there were three tracks and they simply chose the one that looked the best on the day although it made little difference as they nearly always got bogged in the sand.
Fishing at Cabbage Tree Bay, Norah Head c. 1935
When they arrived at Norah they set up camp. There were others who camped there as well or stayed in rough little huts and houses. Some near the site of the present rockpool and others further along near Cabbage Tree Bay. There was a spring just above the (future) rockpool and there was a creek/spring near the area where the Norah Head Search & Rescue Boat Club now stands so there was a plentiful supply of water. They used to cart the water from the spring in old kerosene tins salvaged from the Lighthouse. This hillside was once covered in Cabbage Tree Palms.
For my father and his sisters it was a holiday and a welcome break from school, although my father did attend school at Noraville on one occasion. He vividly remembered the day when the teacher Miss Ada Hargraves dealt calmly with a large snake that had entered the school room.
Mostly, my father was free to roam wherever he liked. With no thoughts of danger (on land at least) or fatigue, he walked for miles over sandy tracks and hills or rowed his boat (called Do-Us) wherever he pleased. With his dog Tim and best friend Santo (Rosetti), he spent his days setting lobster pots, fishing, and catching rabbits - enjoying a childhood that was truly part of another era.
While they were free to go wherever they liked, they never swam in Cabbage Tree Bay.
In the 1930's, it was dangerous to swim in the Bay because of the large number of sharks that followed the fishing boats in; my father recalled leaning over the side of their boat to see the head of a shark at the front of their boat and the tail at the other. Before the present day Rockpool was constructed a natural pool on the reef near the Lighthouse was the only safe place to swim, and was used by children and adults alike.
In the 1930's some of the men decided to build a Rockpool out of the reef. This was in front of land that was used as a Rifle range club house during World War 1. The Rifle Club House was still there at that time and occupied by Larry Lambert. It was pulled down in 1959. Work first began on the Rockpool in 1932/33 when Frank Garnett and Mr. Twaddell from Parramatta brought some of their fishing friends who were shot firers.
They were joined by local people and others including Edward Savage and Billy Lee. When the pool was completed, Frank Garnett carved into the sandstone rock on the southern side of the pool the words Ye Olde Swimmin' Hole and Santo Rosetti added his name also.
Norah Head Rockpool c. 1949
The Rockpool was much smaller than it is today. Later it was decided to enlarge the Pool; and it was enlarged again in the 1960s at which time the rocks were pushed further out and along to the west. The first king-tide after the alteration (in 1966 - 67) allowed the water to flow through/over the rock walls and it wasn't long before erosion of the banks up from the beach started.
The houses that had replaced the seaside huts and cottages were under threat. In a measure to save these buildings a sloped cement wall was built in front of the houses. It was designed by a man conversant with similar sea-walls in Holland. The cement wall was well designed and did its job. It has remained in place for over fifty years. One hundred and five bags of cement were used in its construction and some of the men who worked on it included Billy Lee, John Savage, Jim Anthony and Les Masters.
Today the great great grandchildren of Edward Savage who was one of the men who helped to build the first rockpool still enjoy the benefits of these early endeavours.
MAP OF ROCKPOOL LOCATION AND CABBAGE TREE BAY
The land just behind the Rockpool where the Rifle Club house stood was once owned by Edward Hammond Hargraves and before that by Robert Henderson. Map showing location of Cabbage Tree Bay, Bald Street and Hargraves land above the present day rockpool
NOTES AND LINKS
1). E. H. Hargraves was for many years credited with discovering gold in Australia however there has always been controversy regarding this claim. Gold had been sighted prior to Hargraves claim, however the Government, fearful of the consequences on business and the pastoral industry if workers left for the goldfields, kept the discoveries quiet. Hargraves had prospected for gold in California and thought that similar terrain in Australia would also yield gold. He organised the first prospecting trip to discover gold in NSW. Accompanying him were John Hardman Lister and James Tom. Hargraves explained to these men how to make the cradle he had seen on the Californian goldfields and then left for Sydney. Later in the year Lister and Tom moved to a different site, later to become the site of the town Ophir and there they uncovered payable gold. They sent news of their find to Hargraves who announced the discovery. Hargraves was eventually awarded a sum of £10,000 by the Government for his discovery and was appointed Crown Land Commissioner. Two official enquiries into Hargraves’ claim were made. The first upheld his claim; the second held just before his death dismissed his claim and awarded £1000 each to Lister and Tom. Hargraves died 29th October 1899 in Sydney.
...Edward H. Hargraves. c. 1850
2). California - We have been favoured with the sight of a letter from Mr. E. H. Hargraves to W. Bucknell, Esq., of New Town, Sydney, dated San Francisco, 5th March 1850. Mr. Hargraves states that he had been up the river San Joaquin to the gold diggings, intending to return to San Francisco in a month, but the winter came on, and as travelling was then out of the question, he remained, and only got back in February. During this time, he says, "I dug about £200 worth of gold, but it cost me three fourths to exist - I will not say live, as my dog at home would starve on such fare".
Mr. Hargraves mentions that he had since entered on a commercial speculation, trading up the river to the diggings, but purposed returning to Sydney by Christmas Day next, and adds, "I should be very sorry to be here another winter; it is long and dreary. It may be said to commence 1st October, and ends they say on the 21st March, but up to this date it is extremely cold, and the mountains near San Francisco covered with snow. The transitions from heat to cold are astonishing, and would, and in fact do, kill thousands. I have never been better during my whole life, but my case is a great exception - so much so that it is often remarked".
Mr. Hargraves apologises for his handwriting thus "I fear you cannot make out this scrawl; my hands during the heavy snows used to crack like roast pork, and now are a stiff as mill posts" And he adds, regarding his experience of winter gold digging, "Suffice to say that it is hard work, accompanied with may privations, although I never complained, even in performing the most unpleasant duty of getting up at night to beat the snow off the hut, to prevent its breaking down". As regards the prospects for parties emigrating to California, Mr. Hargraves strongly urges that no families or females should go, the hardships and privations being certain, and the prospect of comfort and almost of existence being very doubtful. he says, "Clerks, doctors, priests, parsons, lawyers etc have been working in the streets in San Francisco this winter, as I was credibly informed on my arrival here the other day" and again: " I am not at all disappointed or surprised at anything I have seen; about one in ten thousand make fortunes at gold digging. I had a piece of gold in my hand weighing 23lbs. some ounces, taken out near my be a Chilano"
3). Other colonial surveyors mentioned on the Free Settler or Felon site include:
Thomas Livingstone Mitchell
George Boyle White
4). List of articles about Norah Head at Australia Trove
5). Indigenous tribe Brisbane Water
6). Lighthouses of New South Wales in 1909
7). Mrs. Williams - The Lady of the Lighthouse
8). Gravel was winched from Pebbly beach at Norah Head. Below is the remains of one of the winches
E. Stinson, A Pictorial history of the Wyong Shire
K. Clouten, Reid's Mistake
Shipwreck database 41/CSIL 40/12674